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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.